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“It started out as a pencil holder…”

December 31, 2018
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Rather than each of us buying Christmas gifts for my entire large family, we draw names. Earlier this year I got my brother Jim’s name, and I was excited because I told myself I’d make him something cool. He & I have very similar tastes, so if I liked something that I made, he likely would too. I didn’t know exactly what it would be, so a couple months ago I bounced a few ideas off of his wife Darcy. A “desk accessory” seemed like a good direction.

Jim & Darcy could be called the founders of the BAB Fan Club, having spent a week of their vacation helping us clear out the junk and clean up the funk in preparation for our Open House that celebrated our closing on BAB. So, making something from BAB parts was appropriate and I went around the building photographing valves, pipes, elbows, and various rusty bits. I also dug through my rolling tower of scrap and even more exciting, sorted through my recent haul from scavenging at the defunct machine shop and storage rooms of the Post-Dispatch newspaper building, thanks to my friend John Berglund.  

Following is just some of parts I was considering…

I spent a few days trying to come up with a combo pencil/pen holder and desk light, but the designs were either really large, or they wouldn’t hold many pencils. And I was making it complicated by trying to hide that it was also a light fixture.

Some early sketches of a combination pencil holder and lamp.

Most of the pencil-holding parts would only hold a few, so that meant more than one vessel would need to be incorporated. So this design of a pencil holder and light combo was feeling fussy.

After consultation with Sue, the clearest idea was to simplify it to one function. And since we didn’t know how many or what kinds of pens/pencils Jim would want to organize (and I couldn’t ask him), I became finally focused on the best objective: a simple desk lamp.

I had some experience working with LEDs from scratch so the actual light source and components didn’t need a lot of design time. I could focus my efforts on the more sculptural and aesthetic aspects to make this object FIRST a work of art, and it would be a bonus that it was a functional light.

Little sketching was done, rather, I spent many hours stacking various pieces together, maintaining a heavier base for stability. Most ideas involved the largest piece – a big gear from the printing press – and some incorporation of a shaft or pipe for height.

It all really came together when a very specific piece was imagined as the top: half of a 6” copper sphere that I salvaged from our basement pit when we were constructing our apartment. It’s a magical piece, not just because it’s a cool copper ball, but because I almost trashed it because I didn’t know it was made of copper (it was covered in rust) until I started cutting away at it. (It’s a much longer story – I was trying to free up a circular plate for our loft railing and my only viable solution was to cut the ball off — and in making the cuts, that’s when I discovered it was copper.) So the copper bowls have been sitting on my scrap tower for 7+ years waiting for the perfect project.

Leftover parts after removing “escutcheon”.

The copper “dome” was pretty nasty; years ago I thought it was rust, bust copper doesn’t rust, so maybe there’s a coating on it that rusted. Or it was simply decades of water immersion that deposited the crud on it.

No one would think this was made of copper.

Inside was “rusty” also.

I put a cup wire brush attachment into an angle grinder, then secured it upside down into a vise. I turned it on and place the dome over it and the biggest cloud of rust-colored dust blew up. I stopped to get a respirator, since I wasn’t sure what that dust contained. I got the dome into a somewhat cleaned up state, maybe just call it less “crusty”, because it still didn’t look like it was copper.

The perimeter edges of the dome were extremely sharp and jagged. So I had to figure out a way to smooth & straighten the edge and remove the metal splintery bits. Instead of using a metal file, which could create an uneven edge, I turned a work surface into a large flat abrasive surface by taping a sheet of sandpaper down. Then I just held the dome with both hands and turned it in circles; it worked quite well.

There was no internal support structure inside the dome so I imagined that I could find some kind of plate to attach on the inside which could then attach to the pipe/center shaft support. The LEDs could also be attached to this same plate, and driver components stored above as well. I needed something pretty sturdy as the plate, so I went looking in my brass stash. I didn’t find anything, but then I remembered those fan receptacles that we removed from the apartment during demolition. (They were about 7’ high on the walls, and fans were mounted to the threaded stud and plugged into the receptacle. They were the only method of cooling in the building.)

Fan receptacle still in the wall of the shop.

Front of receptacle plate.

Backside of fan receptacle.

The brass plate was easy enough to remove, but it had several coats of paint on it, and didn’t some off easily with the wire wheel. But after letting paint stripper sit on the brass overnight, I could scrape off the layers of paint easily. It polished up nicely with the wire wheel and buffer. I cut the corners down so that the plate could recess into the copper bowl.

I could make some angle mounting brackets out of brass, solder them to the copper and screw the plate to the brackets – this would make the copper bowl removable for servicing. In the brash stash I found a 1/16” thick brass sheet; I cut a 1/2” wide strip and I could make four 1” pieces, then bend them by eye to fit into the sphere shape of the copper bowl.

Cut a 1/2″ strip of brass for clips.

I like to test fit everything, so I made an extra brass bracket and I cleaned up a spot on the spare half of the copper sphere, and tested soldering the bracket to the copper. I held it in place with needle nose vise grips and a random nut as a spacer.

Spare test clip

Soldering the test clip.

The test went well, the clip was secured and the heat didn’t affect the copper dome either. So before soldering the final clips, I threaded them for the screws that will attach the brass plate.

Brass clips threaded and ready to solder to dome.

When I attached the clips to the copper, I only measured their distance from the edge of the copper, not their location radially – that I just eye-balled. So I’ll have to come up with a way to know which corner of the brass plate goes to which clip.

This project was unique in that I didn’t have a prescriptive order in building it. There were still unsolved issues, like how the base pieces attached to each other. So if I spent 20-30 minutes trying to work out a design problem and didn’t get anywhere, I mentally put it aside and switched gears to work on tasks that didn’t require much problem solving, like cleaning the copper bowl with the wire wheel. I feel like these kinds of “brain breaks” allow a mental rest and later I can get back to the design problem with a fresh start.

Now moving to the base of the lamp, an earlier design for the base had two gears sitting on top of each other, they would be easy enough to connect to each other.

I found an interesting pipe that would sit nicely on top of it, but I couldn’t figure out how to attach it. Then I found a plumbing tee of the same size thread, and if I threaded the top gear to the same size as the tee, I could get what’s called a “close nipple” and connect them.

This tee could make a good connector to the stacked gears.

That tee could also be a good spot to put a dimmer or switch.

Only problem was, I didn’t have the right size tap to thread that top gear. It was around 4:20 pm on a Friday (I’d taken the afternoon off to work on this project) and the plumbing supply stores were closing soon. I searched on Google Maps for stores (Lowes and Home Depot don’t have these taps) and all but one were closing at 4:30; I called them, they had the tap in stock, but they were 25 minutes away. I jumped in my car and hauled ass to get the tool.

A new 1/2″ NPT tap for my tool collection.

And unfortunately I didn’t think about the “holder” for this tap while I was at the store. When I got home I found that it was too large for my current tap holder. But, I could clamp a couple of vise grips onto it and make my own holder.

Welllll, that didn’t work so well. I thought it was going okay, but the lower vise grip was slipping around the tap shaft. (The upper one had a square shape to grab.) I kept turning it to thread the hole, using mostly the top vise grip. A couple of times I stopped to test how well the pipe/shaft fit into it. On the third test I noticed that the pipe was tilting. I think because I was using mostly one vise grip, I wasn’t putting equal pressure on the tap and it went off-center. At this point I had no way of straightening this out, so I had to abandon this design.

The threads lean slightly to the right.

Back to the drawing board for the base. Felt like a good time to take a mental break and do some busy work cleaning up the copper bowl some more.

The wire wheel is starting to reveal some copper.

I had to find just the right amount of copper to expose yet keep some patina.

Later I went digging deep into the tower of scrap metal, and I hit pay dirt when I found a very old cross tee, which had one 1/2” threaded opening and three 3/4” threaded openings. The pipe that I’d been thinking for the shaft to the top was 1/2”, so this was perfect. The bottom 3/4” opening could fasten the base, and I could cap the side openings with something pretty.

To replace the screwed up top gear, I found some kind of steel cam piece that looked interesting, which was also fairly hefty and would add more stability to the base. The hole in it was a near perfect fit for the 3/4” pipe. (Though I didn’t know yet how the pipe would attach.) There was also a nice thick steel disk that would make a great transition between the big gear and this cam piece.

Arrows point to steel cam, transition disc and bottom gear.

I think I finally had all the right pieces selected, even though the connection details weren’t all figured out. In the Post-Dispatch parts, there was a nice solid cylinder of bronze with a 1/2” diameter hole through the center. I had no idea what it was used for, but one end had a larger recess that would fit the 1/2″ pipe shaft well. I just had to grind the union fitting still stuck on the pipe until it fit into the large recess. And I could tap threads into the other end of the cylinder to attach the brass plate.

The bronze cylinder before drilling holes.

Now that all of the general parts have been determined, I needed to spend some focused time on the brass plate and how the LEDs would be attached.

I wanted the LEDs replaceable (they don’t last forever) so I defaulted to a similar design that I used on the pipe light, but I was going to solder the copper coupler to the brass plate and leave the upper end open to allow the LED assembly to be removed. But first I needed to make that “detent” or stop with the pipe cutter, stopping just short of cutting through.

Copper coupling with circular detent/ridge cut inside.

The lens assembly stops at the ridge and two black tabs hold it in place.

Four new holes in plate that the copper couplers fit.

I thought that filling solder in the joint between the copper coupler and the brass plate could get messy – solder might flow onto the outside, so I devised more brass clip angles, that I could attach in two steps and minimize solder flowing down the copper.

Brass strips cut, then bent into little angles.

I tied the clips to the copper with brass wire, to hold them for soldering.

I wanted the copper coupler to stick below the brass plate just a little, only for design purposes. So I found a bunch of really thick washers, which held the plate up off of the metal table, and the copper coupler sat directly on the table while I soldered the top legs of the angle to the copper. Once I soldered on all of the angles, I could then solder the bottom legs to the brass. I couldn’t figure out a way to secure these while soldering, so I just eye-balled them in the center of the holes and was just careful while I was soldering to not move them (much).

Soldering copper coupler to brass plate.

I soaked the whole thing in mineral spirits overnight.

This side will be visible under the copper dome.

After the brass plate was cleaned and dry, I heated the whole thing just a bit and coated it all with paste wax. That should keep the tarnish away for a little bit. I buffed away the excess when it was cool.

I mentioned earlier that I just eye-balled where the clips were attached; so once I figured out which corner aligns with its matching clip, I marked the brass plate with a punched dot, and I cut off the corners of the clip angle to mark that these two go together.

Aside from wiring & electronics, I’m calling the top done!

I still didn’t know how I was going to attach that bottom gear to the other base parts. Now that I have a 3/4″ pipe coming through the center from that cross tee, I thought maybe I could attach a large 3/4″ pipe coupling on the inside of that gear, but it would require some kind of sideways connectors, like more threaded screws or set screws. (I did something very similar, which I called “plugs” a few years ago when I made candle holders as gifts for dinner guests.) I even found an old plumbing union with 3/4″ threads and spent 20 minutes taking it apart (old parts get really stuck around here) and figuring how I could secure it on the inside of the gear. But I wasn’t convinced that that was the best option just yet. Time for a break and do some busy work on other pieces.

The “transition disc” between the cam and the bottom gear didn’t fit the 3/4″ pipe; it’s opening was too small.

The cross tee with 3/4″ pipe, and the disc marked for the enlarged hole.

I don’t have a drill bit that matches 3/4″ pipe diameter, or any other power tool option to make the enlarging easier. So I would just file the opening larger manually.

Using round file to make the hole fit 3/4″ pipe.

I kept the cross tee with the 3/4″ pipe nearby for regular testing to know when I was done. It only took about 10-15 minutes.

There were still some other details to figure out, like what kind of pad or feet would go on the bottom, and final cleaning, etc., but the inevitable hard problem needed solving – how to connect the bottom gear. I still didn’t want to put some holes around the sides of the gear. So I thought going to the hardware store with my gear in hand might inspire some alternate solution.

Literally the first piece I noticed in the 3/4″ galvanized parts section was a “floor flange”, which is a wide flat piece with 3/4″ threaded center. It seemed perfect, but I really didn’t want to use anything cast and galvanized, because the surface is usually bumpy and uneven, which could throw off alignments but I also was going for a more vintage metal look, not cheap Chinese parts. But after 5 minutes of an internal debate I had between “It solves the problem” and “But it’s ugly and bumpy”, I went with the flange because a) it’s hidden at the very bottom, b) I can sand/grind away most of the ugliness and c) any uneven bits causing problems could be filed smooth. The time saved by it being the perfect solution was worth any extra work dressing & cleaning it up.

A stupid ugly floor flange is the perfect solution to bolting it all together.

I could smooth away all the bumpy surface.

I just had to shorten the 3/4″ pipe to the right length…

…and thread it to accept the floor flange.

TIME FOR ASSEMBLY!

But first – final cleaning. When I’m cutting, grinding and doing whatever other working methods, I wear work gloves that get pretty dirty and oily, particularly when using cutting oil to make threads. So all the parts get oil and crud in all their crevices, so a good soak overnight in mineral spirits gets them degreased well.

A stainless steel hotel pan works great for soaking parts.

Cleaned and dried.

Like the brass plate, all of the parts got a good coating of paste wax after they were warmed up a bit with the propane torch. It was a little tricky because I wanted the wax to melt into all the threads and openings. But holding hot metal parts was nice on my hands because the shop is pretty cold.

Everything here makes the lamp.

Some brass shims inside cam hole to better fit the 3/4″ pipe.

The lamp almost assembled, minus the copper dome.

Fully assembled, still without electronics.

Now that the mechanical parts were complete, time to focus on the lighting system.

One part that I was really concerned about was the dimmer. I asked the LED salesman for their smallest potentiometer (dimmer) but I didn’t know exactly how small. I went upstairs to the pipe light and measured that dimmer, in case the new one was similar size.

The older dimmer needs at least 7/8″…

My cross tee openings, where I planned to put the dimmer, were just barely 7/8″ openings. I had test fit a standard 3/4″ copper cap into the threads, and it could be force fit and tapped in place. But if the new dimmer didn’t fit the inside diameter of that cap, it wouldn’t work. So I started thinking of an alternate plan, like adding an adapter/reducer to go from 3/4″ copper to something larger like an inch or more. But I should wait to get the new parts before I actually MADE any of those adjustments.

I ordered all the parts online, and I was cutting it close with delivery. The LED parts arrived Wednesday the 19th, and I had to have this project finished and ready to catch an 11:00am flight on the 21st. Fortunately I planned to take Thursday off from work and finish it all.

What’s nice about the electrical work is that it’s quiet and not terribly messy and I could do it in the warmth of our apartment at our kitchen table. So I had Wednesday evening to get the electronics all working. The fantastic news was – that the dimmer was super tiny!

The dimmer (blue part) is just over 1/4″ wide… great news.

First step is to solder wires to all of the LED circuit boards and then temporarily connect the driver, dimmer and power supply to test the circuit, and my soldering skills. I use one of those small tabletop vises to hold the small parts while soldering. I protected the table with a large piece of cardboard, which was convenient because I could work out the wiring diagram on it.

Now time for some tiny detailed soldering.

First test – success!

Once the circuit worked, it was time to assemble the lens holders and the optic lens. There are many types of lenses available, from narrow to wide spots, ripples, elliptical, etc. I chose wide flood optics to spread the light as far as possible around the lamp.

One aspect of this specific LED assembly is that the lens holders are meant to be super-glued to the LED board. I prefer mechanical over chemical connections, so I’m not sure how long it will last. It’s not moving, so that’s a plus, but it will get warm, a minus.

The black lens holder is glued to LED, and the clear optics snap into the holder.

Now that I knew how tiny the dimmer is, I prepared a copper cap to hold it; I tapped it tightly into one side of the cross tee.

Center hole is for dimmer shaft, the small hole is for the stop that keeps it from spinning.

I used long forceps to insert the dimmer from the opposite side of the cross tee.

A temporary connection to the driver and power supply to test.

I like to test the circuit every time I move wires around; still good!

Now to push the LED assemblies into their copper tubes. It was not as easy as the last time with the pipe light; I think I cut these recesses a bit deeper and I had trouble getting both black tabs to pop over the ridge.

And… I forgot to smooth the ends of the copper couplers, and they were surprisingly jagged. So I wrapped the edges with electrical tape. Should hold for about 10 years… (The next photo is the only shot I have of how the brass plate is held to the bronze cylinder with the giant washer.)

Top components finished and ready to test again.

Another test – still working…

The light grazed across the bronze cylinder (in last photo) and I didn’t like the way the stainless steel set screws were casting a little shadow. So I put on my list for the next day to get new set screws that were 1/16″ shorter.

The driver tucked perfectly inside the cross tee.

I stamped my name and the year into another copper cap, and hammered that into the remaining 3/4″ hole in the cross tee.

Now with the wiring mostly done, and NOW that I know how thick the power wires are that come out of the bottom, I could work out the feet or pads to have the appropriate clearance without pinching the power wire.

I had some leftover 1/4″ thick rubber sheet, and I cut a circular piece on my scroll saw. I divided it into 4 equal parts, smoothed and tapered them on the tabletop belt sander, then stuck temporarily to the bottom with double stick tape to check clearance.

Rubber feet cut from 1/4″ thick sheet.

The 1/4″ thickness wasn’t quite enough to clear the thickness of the power wire. I could have looked for something thicker, but I decided that I didn’t want the lamp elevated much more – I don’t want to look like it’s levitating. So instead, I put a metal grinding disc on an angle grinder, clamped a scrap steel angle across the bottom as a guide, and ground in grooves in the floor plate, just deep enough for the power wire to sit in without any pressure on it.

One final piece of wire protection was needed; where the power comes out of the center pipe, it could abrade against the insides of that 3/4″ pipe. A couple days ago I saw an odd rubber cap with a flange around it, perhaps that would fit the pipe and I could turn it into some kind of grommet. I found it and it would only go in about 1/8″.

Rubber cap I found in the shop.

It was longer than necessary, and it had a solid tip, with a hole partway through the center. I thought if I cut it in half, maybe I could squeeze the sides and get it to fit further inside. The flange was also too thick so I sanded that down a lot on the belt sander. I also rounded the inside hole with a Dremel tool, so that the wire wouldn’t have to bend as much.

New rubber “grommet” I made.

Before putting the grommet in the pipe, I made a small loop in the power wire above the grommet, and zip tied it in place. This would act as a strain relief in case the power wire ever gets caught and starts to pull on the inside wire, hopefully saving the smaller wire inside from getting pulled.

Small loop on the inside in case the power wire gets pulled.

Rubber feet and center grommet completed.

At this point, the lamp is basically done. But I didn’t want to just wrap it in tissue paper and put Jim’s name on it. I said to Sue: “Hey wouldn’t it be funny to make a crate with “Fragile” on it like in Christmas Story?”

I don’t know what everyone else’s favorite Christmas movie is, but in my family, A Christmas Story has played constantly around the holidays so much that everyone loves it, or hates it. Mom gave everyone DVD’s of it many years ago, and I bought the BluRay when it came out, hence I love it. Since everyone at Christmas knew the movie, putting it in a crate would make a great presentation.

(If you aren’t familiar with the bit in the movie, Ralphie’s father wins a major award and it gets delivered during dinner; it’s a huge wooden crate with “Fragile” painted on it. And after the delivery guys leave, “the old man” waves his hand over the crate and says “Fra-GEE-lay… it must be Italian!”. And then the mom says: “I think is says ‘Fragile’ honey…” After opening it up and throwing all the stuffing around, he pulls out the famous leg lamp.)

So i popped in the movie and captured a few screen shots.

The crate getting wheeled into Ralphie’s house.

The old man using a crowbar and hammer to open the crate.

I searched through our stacks of pallets (inherited when we bought BAB) and found a fairly small one that used thin strips of oak. It helped that they were pretty rough and had some gritty areas from real transport use. For ease of construction, I made the “back” or base and ends out of 3/4″ thick plywood, to give it sturdier structure, then the loose slats nailed into the ends.

Testing the crate for fit.

I added a third piece of plywood just above the cross tee, with a notch cut into it to hold the lamp securely in the middle of it. I also found the same packing material used in the movie, “excelsior”, which is curled wood shavings. I planned to take this as a carry-on, and expected that I would need to unpack it for TSA. So I stuffed all of the excelsior into smaller plastic bags, so they wouldn’t make a mess in security at the airport. And instead of nailing or screwing the lid shut, I just tied it on with ropes, again for ease of access. I pre-drilled some nail holes into the side braces, and brought along the nails. Then all I had to do at Christmas is hammer in four nails in the lid.

The crate all ready to go on the airplane.

There was a carrying problem. I needed an easy way to tote this heavy box, AND I needed a way to conceal it from Jim – because he and Darcy were picking us up at the airport in Oklahoma City. I looked for tote bags but none were big enough, even my softball equipment bag couldn’t hold it. Then I went into the dock and saw the stack of snorkeling gear that still isn’t put away from our recent Caribbean vacation – and I have a huge fin & mask bag that is also a backpack – if that fit over the box, that would work! I also packed a heavy duty trash bag into a side pocket; when/if I made it through security, I could slip the bag over the crate and put it back into the backpack, hiding that it was made of wood.

Foam padding around the crate to keep corners from poking through the snorkel bag.

I had it all finished and packed up around 1:00am on the morning we had to leave. Just in the nick of time.

I was pretty nervous about taking this through security; I had envisioned many scenarios where they got suspicious and made me take it all apart, or worse, they could see it used as some kind of heavy battle axe with the pointy gear teeth used as the bashing end, and then take it from me. Or I’d have to check it and it would get damaged in the handling.

It wasn’t anything like that.

I was watching the x-ray screen as the lamp went through the scanner, and I pointed and said to Sue: “Look – there’s the lamp!” and you could clearly see all the coloring of the solid steel. The TSA agent slowly glanced at the backpack as it came out of the scanner, with a curious look; we made eye contact so I smiled and said “It’s a LAMP…” and he just chuckled and went about his business. I wish I’d taken a photo of the xray screen, but TSA probably doesn’t like that.

Our plan was to spend a couple of days with Jim & Darcy at their house in Edmond (just outside OKC), doing the usual fun things we like to do with them, and then all of us drive to Mom’s house in Tulsa, where we have our traditional Christmas eve party and when we open gifts.

So I had a couple of days to put some finishing touches on the present. But first I asked Darcy if she wanted in on what I made for Jim; I said we MIGHT want to open it at home and not cart it to Tulsa, but that there was a presentation component that others might enjoy. She said yes so I showed the lamp and crate to her when Jim wasn’t around. She loved it and said the Fragile crate needs to be opened in Tulsa. I asked Darcy if she had any black paint and small brushes; she did, and while Jim was taking a nap (he wasn’t feeling well) I went into their spare bedroom and painted “Fragile” as close a match I could to the movie screenshot.

“Fra-GEE-lay” crate all ready.

To take the “presentation” one step further, I went out to Jim’s shop and grabbed a crowbar and hammer. I wrapped them up in a box as another Christmas present to him, and before finally wrapping the crate up in gift wrap, I put a note on it that he’ll need to open his last gift.

I only made a few drawings while working on the lamp, some just as a shopping list.

Since I didn’t do many sketches or drawings, and since I know Jim would be curious about all the parts in his lamp, I decided I’d make a drawing of the lamp, cut in section, and label all the parts and explain how it goes together. So in my spare time, while we were hanging around at Jim & Darcy’s, I’d be on my iPad sketching out the drawing, easy enough to hide from Jim. I used Adobe Sketch for the actual drawing of the lamp, and then used Adobe Comp to lay it out like a poster and add titles, text and arrows. I gave it the humorous title of “JLamp”, for “Jim Lamp”.

I hoped that I would finish the drawing in Tulsa and I could take it to a Fedex/Kinko’s to print it on 11×17 nice cover stock and give it to Jim for Christmas. But our time in Tulsa was a little busier then I expected, so instead I emailed Jim a PDF of the drawing while we were opening presents, and later in the evening I showed it to him on my iPad. When Sue & I got back to St. Louis, I sent him the full size prints on nice stock paper.

Fortunately, our nephew-in-law took a short video of Jim opening the crate.

 

Picture of JLamp at Jim & Dacry’s home lit up.

I asked Jim to send me a picture of it at home lit up. He currently has it on their coffee bar, but I think he’s going to be taking it to work next week.

Well I don’t know how to best close this long post, with other than I really enjoy making something from nothing, I’m glad I was able to re-purpose some unwanted parts from both BAB and a newspaper printing press, and that I got to do it for someone who will appreciate more than almost anyone. I love you Jim!

 

2 Comments leave one →
  1. Jim Peterson permalink
    January 5, 2019 9:37 am

    I always love reading your building posts and I will cherish this lamp always Tom. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it for me, I love you too.

  2. Janet Peterson permalink
    January 1, 2019 12:36 am

    Tom,
    You set yourself up for next Christmas 🎄. Everyone will be hoping that you get their name. What a wonderful gift. I am so glad that I got to see it. You still always amaze me as I get to see how talented you are.
    I know that Jim will cherish it. All that work!
    Thank you for sharing as how it came to be. I love you, ❤ xxxx, Mom

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